WEAVING:-
The process of
producing a fabric by interlacing warp and weft threads is known as weaving.
The machine used for weaving is known as weaving machine or loom. Weaving is a skill
that has been practiced for thousands of years. The initial application of
weaving dates back to the Egyptian civilization. Over the years, both the process
as well as the machine has undergone phenomenal changes. As of today, there is
a wide range of looms being used, right from the simplest handloom to the most sophisticated
loom.
In this rang, the
most widely prevalent loom, especially with reference to India, is the
ubiquitous “plain power loom”. In this and in the chapters that follow, the
various mechanisms associated with the plain power loom are discussed in
elaborate detail.
Mechanisms in a Plain
Power Loom
In order to interlace
wrap and weft threads to produce a fabric, the following mechanisms are
necessary on any type of loom. There are three mechanisms involve they are
1. Primary mechanisms
2. Secondary mechanisms
3. Auxiliary mechanisms
1.
Primary Mechanisms
These are primary or
essential mechanisms. Without these mechanisms, it is practically impossible to
produce a fabric. It is for this reason that these mechanisms are called ‘primary’
mechanisms. The primary mechanisms are three in number.
a. Shedding mechanism
b. Picking mechanism
c. Beat-up mechanism
a.
Shedding mechanism
The shedding mechanism separates the
warp threads into two or more layers according to design or divisions to form a
tunnel known as ‘shed’
b. Picking mechanism
The picking mechanism
passes weft thread from one selvedge of the fabric to the other through the
shed by means of a shuttle, a projectile, a rapier, a needle, an air-jet or a
water-jet. The inserted weft thread is known as “pick”.
c. Beat-up mechanism
The beat-up mechanism
beats or pushes the newly inserted length of weft thread (pick) into the
already woven fabric at a point known as “fell of the cloth”. These three
mechanisms namely shedding, picking and then beat-up are done in sequence.
2.
Secondary
Mechanisms
These mechanisms are
next in significance to the primary mechanisms. If weaving is to be continuous,
these mechanisms are essential. So they are called the ‘secondary’ mechanisms.
They are:
a)
Take-up
motion
b)
Let-off
motion.
a)
Take-up motion
The take-up motion withdraws the cloth from
the weaving area at a constant rate so as to give the required pick-spacing (in
picks/inch or picks/cm) and then winds it on to a cloth roller.
b)
Let-off motion
The let-off motion delivers the warp to the
weaving area at the required rate and at constant tension by unwinding it from
the weaver’s beam. The secondary motions are carried out simultaneously.
3.
Auxiliary
Mechanisms
To get high
productivity and good quality of fabric, additional mechanisms, called auxiliary
mechanisms, are added to a plain power loom. The auxiliary mechanisms are
useful but not absolutely essential. This is why they are called the ‘auxiliary’
mechanisms. These are listed below.
a. Warp protector mechanism
b. Weft stop motion
c. Temples
d. Brake
e. Warp stop motion (Predominantly
found in automatic looms)
a. Warp protector
mechanism
The warp protector
mechanism will stop the loom if the shuttle gets trapped between the top and
bottom layers of the shed. It thus prevents excessive damage to the warp
threads, reed wires and shuttle.
b. Weft stop motion
The object of the
weft stop motion is to stop the loom when a weft thread breaks or gets
exhausted. This motion helps to avoid cracks in a fabric.
c. Temples
The function of the
temples is to grip the cloth and hold it at the same width as the warp in the
reed, before it is taken up.
d. Brake
The brake stops the
loom immediately whenever required. The weaver uses it to stop the loom to
repair broken ends and picks.
e. Warp stop motion
The object of the
warp stop motion is to stop the loom immediately when a warp thread breaks
during the weaving process.
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